Crochet Border for a Quilt

As promised, I said I would post the instructions for the Crochet Quilt Square if I found it. And I did find it. To see what the border looks like, you’ll have to follow the link to the original publication. Enjoy.

Crochet Border for a Quilt. (Published in the Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW : 1870 – 1907), Saturday 29 June 1901, page 42)

The first row may be begun on the edge of the quilt itself, in which case the additional fulness required for turning the corners can be ensured row by row, by working three or five extra stitches, in the same way as extra stitches are employed in turning the corners of the quilt squares; or it can be crocheted upon a foundation chain of the required length, with an ample allowance for fulling in round the corners.

The same pattern is useful worked with macrame twine for a manfel-drape, or worked with colored flax thread for furniture trimming.

1st row: Plain double crochet.

2nd row: Turn the work; do 1 treble in the back, thread of a double crochet stitch of the preceding row; * 3 chain, another treble in the same place, miss two stitches, 1 treble in the back thread of the next double crochet, and repeat from * to the end of the row.

3rd row: Keep the work on the same side, and do 1 double crochet in the centre stitch of the three chain of last row, 2 chain, and continue the same.

4th row: Plain double crochet.

5th row: All treble, inserting the hook to take the one top thread of the stitches of the previous row, and increase one stitch in every ten.

6th row: Work 1 double crochet in the front thread of a double crochet stitch of the fourth row; miss one stitch, 6 double crochet in the front thread of the next stitch, miss one and repeat.

7th row: Turn the work; and do plain double crochet, inserting the hook to take the back thread of the treble stitches of the fifth row.

8th row: Turn the work; insert the hook into two top threads of the stitches of last row, and do 1 treble, 1 chain, miss one, and repeat.

9th row: Turn the work; and do plain double crochet, inserting the hook to take the back thread of the stitches of last row.

10th row: Same as the eighth row.

11th row: Same as the ninth row.

12th row: With the right side of the work to the front; work all treble, taking up the back thread of the stitches of last row, and increase one treble in every ten.

13th row: Work 1 double crochet in the top thread of a double crochet stitch of the eleventh row, miss one stitch, 6 double crochet in the top thread of the next stitch, miss one, and repeat.

14th row: With the right side of the work to the front, work double crochet on the treble stitches of the twelfth row.

15th row: Same as the eighth row.

16th row: Same as the ninth row.

17th row: Turn the work; and again do plain double crochet, inserting the hook to take the back thread of the stitches of last row.

18th row: The same.

Now for the Scollops.

Beginning with the wrong side of the work to th« front: Do 1 double crotchet on the first stitch, inserting the hook to take the top and back threads, * 5 chain, miss three, 1 double crochet on the next, and repeat from * three times, making four loops of chain stitches, and turn the work.

2nd row: Do 6 double crochet under each of the three first loops, and 3 double crochet under the fourth loop.

3rd row: Turn with 5 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth double crochet stitches of the first loop, 5 chain, 1 double, crochet between the third and fourth stitches of the next loop, 5 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth stitches of the next loop, making three loops of chain stitches, and turn the work.

4th row: Do 6 double crochet under each of the two first loops, and 3 double crochet under the third loop.

5th row: Turn with 5 chain, double crochet between the third and fourth double crochet stitches of the first loop, 5 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth stitches of the next loop, making two loops of chain stitches, and turn the work.

6th row: Do 6 double crochet under the first loop, and 3 double crochet under the second loop.

7th row: Turn with 5 chain, 1 double crochet between the third and fourth double crochet stitches of the loop, forming one loop only for the top of the scollop, and turn the work.

8th row: Do 2 double crochet under the loop, 4 chain, 2 more double crochet under the loop, 4 chain, again 2 double crochet, 4 chain, and again 2 double crochet under the loop, then 3 double crochet to fill in the vacant half space of the next loop to the left, 3 double crochet in the next loop, and 3 double crochet in the next loop, which finishes one scollop.

The other scollops are formed in the same manner.

A Crochet Quilt Square

I’m not all that good a crochet, as I’ve always been a knitter, but I found some old patterns that intrigued me and thought I’d share.

This first one is for a granny square. If you make enough you can sew or crochet them together to make a quilt. The original publication states a pattern for the border would be published in a later issue. If I find it, I’ll share that too. Edit: I did find the instructions for Crochet Border for a Quilt.

A Crocheted Quilt. (Published in Australian Town and Country Journal (Sydney, NSW:1870-1907 – Sat 15 Jun 1901, Page 43)

A crochet quilt square

This quilt is worked in separate squares, which must be sewn or crocheted together when the number is sufficient for the size of the quilt required. Use knitting-cotton, No. 6, and a steel crochet needle, No. 15.

Begin in the centre by winding the cotton twice round the first finger of the left hand, work 8 double crochet in the loop, draw the loop in closely, then join the last stitch of the double crochet to the first stitch, and this forms the first round of the quilt square. Every successive round is to be joined in the same manner quite evenly to its own commencement, and unless otherways directed, always turn the work with 1 chain to re-commence a fresh round, and insert the hook to take up the one back thread of the stitches of the previous round, that the work may sit in ridges.

2nd round: 1 double crochet on the first stitch, 3 double crochet on the next stitch, and repeat the same three times, making 16 double crochet in the round.

3rd round: 1 double crochet on each of three double crochet along the side of the square, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch of three double crochet for the corner, making 24 double crochet in the round, and fasten off.

4th-round: Holding the wrong side of last round towards you, do 1 double cro-chet on the third stitch of the three double crochet at the corner, 1 double crochet on the next stitch now a “tuft” –that is 5 treble stitches worked into a thread of the second previous round– miss the next stitch of the last round,1 double crochet on the next stitch, 1 double crochet on the next, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch of three double crochet at the corner, and repeat the same three times.

5th round: Plain double crochet, except behind the tufts, where a treble stitch is to be worked into the thread of the stitch that was missed in last round, and 3 double crochet are as usual to be worked on the centre stitch at each corner.

6th round: Work 1 double crochet on the third stitch of the three double crochet at the corner, 1 double crochet on the next, a tuft, miss one stitch of last round, 3 double crochet consecutive, a tuft, miss one stitch, 1 double crochet on the next, 1 double crochet on the next, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at the corner.

7th round: Same as the fifth round.

8th round: Work 1 double crochet oh the third stitch of the three double crochet at the corner, 1 double crochet on the next, a tuft, miss one stitch of last round, 7 double crochet consecutive, a tuft, miss one stitch, 1 double crochet on the next, 1 double crochet on the next, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at the corner.

9th round: Same as the 5th.

10th round: Work 1 double crochet on the third stitch of the three double crochet at the corner, 1 double crochet on the next, a tuft, miss one stitch of last round, 11 double crochet consecutive, a tuft, miss 1 stitch, 1 double crochet on the next, 1 double crochet on the next, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at the cor-ner.

11th round: Same as the fifth.

12th round: Work 1 double crochet on the third stitch of the three double crochet at the corner, 1 double crochet on the next, a tuft, miss one stitch of last round, 15 double crochet consecutive, a tuft, miss one stitch, 1 double crochet on the next, 1 double crochet on the next, 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at the corner.

13th round: Same as the fifth.

14th round: Work plain double crochet, with 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at each corner.

15th round: The same, in this round there should be 27 double crochet along each side of the square and 3 double crochet at each corner; fasten off at the end of the round.

16th round: Hold the right side of the work towards you, do 1 treble on the first of the three double crochet stitches at the corner, inserting the hook to take up the two front threads of the stitches of last round, 1 chain, 1 treble on the corner stitch, 1 chain, another treble on the cor-ner stitch, 1 chain, another treble in the same place, 1 chain, 1 treble on the third of the three double crochet stitches; 1 chain, miss one, 1 treble on the next and continue thus in one chain, miss one, 1 treble on the next, till you get in all, 5 treble worked at the corner, and 13 treble along the side of the square with 1 chain between each; do 1 chain and repeat the same to the end of the round, and join evenly.

17th round: Turn, and work plain double crochet, with 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at each corner.

18th round: The same.

19th round: Hold the right side of the work towards you, and insert the hook to take up the one front thread of the stitches of last round, 5 double crochet on one double crochet stitch of last round, miss one, 1 double crochet on the next, miss one, and repeat the same to the end of the round, and fasten off; this round sits in little scollops, and there must be a scollop at each corner and nine scollops along each side, making 40 scollops in the round.

20th round: Hold the work the right side towards you and do a round of plain treble stitches, with 5 treble on the centre stitch at each corner, inserting the hook to take up the one top thread of the stitches of the eighteenth round, and keeping the little scollops down under the left hand thumb.

21st round: With the right side of the work still in front, do 1 double crochet into the top thread of a stitch of last row, do 1 double crochet into the front thread of a stitch of last row, and repeat this alternately all round, with 3 double crochet stitches at each corner.

22nd round: Work in the same manner, taking the top thread now where in last round the front thread was taken.

23rd round: Turn, and work plain double crochet into the back threads of the stitches of last round, and as before do 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at each corner.

24th round: The same as last round.

25th round: Work in little scollops, the same as the 19th round, a scollop at each corner and 12 scollops along each side, making 52 scollops in the round.

26th round: The same as the 20th round.

27th round: Turn, and work plain double crochet into the back threads of the stitches of last round, and 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at each corner, and fasten off at the end of the round.

28th round: Hold the right side of the work towards you, and inserting the hook to take up the back thread of the stitches of last round, do 1 treble, 1 chain, miss one, and repeat the same all round, making a little increase to ease the corners.

29th round: With the right side of the work still in front, do plain double crochet into the top thread of the stitches of last round, and 3 double crochet on the centre stitch at each corner.

This finishes the square. When a number of squares are worked they may be joined together by a row of double crochet, or simply sewn together.

My Knitting Bag

Due to the colder months, I’ve been doing a lot of knitting.  As most of the projects I’ve started are small, I’m finishing more than normal.  As a result, there seems to be an influx of craft posts on this website and I feel as if there are actually too many.

As I learn new techniques and find tips on the internet that I want to record for future use, I want to post about them but at the same time I’m hesitant to do so.

Yesterday, I made the decision to create a new website – My Knitting Bag – where I can freely post to my heart’s content.

There isn’t much to see over there yet. Posts have been scheduled for the coming week, but they are literally the posts on craft that were posted to this website, but have now been moved to the new website and deleted from here.

From now on, all tips and resources will be posted there, not here. It’s unlikely I’ll post anything to do with craft here again.

So if you are a crafty person, I hope you’ll head over to My Knitting Bag and make yourself known to me. 🙂

Edit: My Knitting Bag has been deleted. I didn’t use it much and have commenced added a few posts to this site again instead.